Thursday, 3 January 2013
North West Sandstone
Then follow this link http://skinnydogbouldering.blogspot.co.uk/
Saturday, 31 March 2012
Sunday, 4 March 2012
Sunday, 8 January 2012
Saturday, 2 July 2011
Feed The Need 8a+ photo Dawid Skoczylas
The hardest line here is a very nice one move problem which is an eliminate but a very obvious one. It starts from a specified starting position and then dead point slaps a very poor slopey hold, with a much easier mantle finish. I had a brief session on this and basically worked out the beta but essentially didn't get close. Then I showed it to Dawid Skoczylas who I know can't resist dynamic moves we spent two sessions trying this line intensively before it finally went. On my third session in the dying light I managed to stick the move with enough control to get to the lip. I only just beat Dawid to it as he fell off very close before me and then made an ascent two days later also on his third session. We called it Feed the Need and agreed a grade of 8a+. I made a quick video of our later attempts and our ascents which is below. It really is a brilliant problem and landing the move is very satisfying, I’ve certainly never done a move like it, with the difference between success and failure being a very small margin. Brilliant fun and no give away!
Tuesday, 17 May 2011
Sofa Surfer Direct 8b Photo - David Skoczylas
A little video which show all of my hardest sends can be be found below. I like the video but it is spoilt by the fact i lost a lot of quality in the editing and posting and i don't have the time to redo it.
Since getting back I've been out a lot on the Magnesium Carbonate, or Magnesian limestone as I've been told is its official name. This is mainly due to the lack of time, i can climb there after work, but also i love my local venues and the rock type, most of all i love the peace and quiet.
First up whilst out climbing with Ned who was trying Fire in the Rain and Dave Mason at The Wave area at Anston , i cleaned up and climbed a righthand finish to Black Crow (7c+). This rather than going left and climbing the corners (or lamely just dropping off) takes on another roof using a rather good heal to hand move and a bit of power. Black Hoe 8a is the result and is quite a quality addition.
Secondly I managed to track and spend a nice session down at venue that the Copley brothers started to develop before jetting of to pasture new, you can read their exploits here http://liamcopleyclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/doncaster-boulderingwhat.html It turns out its Levitthagg Quarry close to the Sprotbrough wall developed by Mo. It has some okay problems that are a bit small and over graded , as well as one really good prow that the boys left unfinished. I managed to do it finishing directly up, rather than rocking right onto a big shelf. This gives a really nice problem which I'm going to call Lightworker, just because there is already a problem called into the light. The grade is around 7c+ish and i even got a nice little vid of the first accent:
Thirdly i climbed a project on Woody's rock at Anston Stones. I don't tend to climb on this buttress as it is very slow to dry and as such it has more or less been forgotten with no one showing any interest in it, which is a shame as there is one really very good roof climb on it. One of the main project lines on it i had abandoned about three years ago as being too hard and too out of my style. I went back to look at it and see if i could capitalise on all the dry weather we had recently and it turns out i was almost able to make the crux moves. Spurred on i spent another two session on it and managed to piece the moves together. On the Fourth session after resting with good skin and in good conditions i managed to get the red point. which i am very happy about as it shows me i am making gains in my weakness. I'm going to call the Line Vanilla Sky and suggest a grade of 8a+/8b, but it could be easier as i was climbing out of my preferred style. I have put together a little video which shows the problem nicely: